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Solo: Nanga Parbat (English and German Edition), by Reinhold Messner
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Language Notes
Text: English, German (translation)
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Product details
Hardcover: 276 pages
Publisher: Oxford Univ Pr; First Edition edition (January 1, 1981)
Language: English, German
ISBN-10: 0195201965
ISBN-13: 978-0195201963
Package Dimensions:
9.2 x 6.1 x 1 inches
Shipping Weight: 1.6 pounds
Average Customer Review:
5.0 out of 5 stars
2 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#1,463,201 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
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Reinhold Messner first climbed Nanga Parbat in 1970 as part of a large and well funded German expedition. It was the first 8000-meter peak for the young climbing superstar who was blowing everybody away with his record breaking unassisted climbs up the hardest faces in the Alps and the Dolomites; a real life Spider-Man. Many of these climbs are documented in Messner's book, The Seventh Grade: Most Extreme Climbing.At Nanga Parbat, the team attempted to reach the summit via the technically challenging Rupal Face which is described as the largest rock and ice face in the world. Without using supplemental oxygen (Messner never used supplemental oxygen for any climb) he reached the summit with his brother Gunther. They were forced to descend on the "easier" opposite side of the mountain (the Diamar Face) because Gunther was in bad shape and was not able to descend the way they came up. During the descent, Gunther was killed in an avalanche and Reinhold nearly went insane looking for him before staggering more dead than alive into the valley below.His descent was the first time Nanga Parbat had been traversed, up one side and down another, although it was done unintentionally. Reinhold suffered from severe frostbite and lost several toes and fingers for the most part ending his career as a big wall climber. This left the world's tallest mountains as the only places he could continue perfect his art. This climb and the subsequent controversy Gunther's death caused is documented brilliantly in Messner's The Naked Mountain.Reinhold Messner quickly became disgusted with the traditional "Expedition Style" of climbing which involves huge numbers of people, carrying huge amounts of supplies up huge mountains, establishing camps and setting fixed lines to prepare for eventual summit attempts. These expeditions were far too expensive and truly limited the attempts he could make on the mountains.He was also eager to seek what amounts to an absolute purity of effort in attacking the big peaks using smaller teams of as few as two carrying their own life support while making quick ascents and descents. His perfection of this "Alpine Style" of climbing reached its culmination on this, the first truly solo climb up any 8000 meter peak. His team included a doctor and a Pakistani liaison officer both who stayed in base camp. From that point it was Messner and the mountain. Many thought he was truly mad to even attempt this type of thing.The book is a complete journal of the Messner's efforts on this climb and of his history on Nanga Parbat. He is very generous with the revelations of where his mind was and his meditative philosophies on achieving an absolute purity of effort in mountaineering; no oxygen, no technology, no fancy tools, basically shelter, food, an ice axe and crampons. He encounters, of all things, an earthquake on the way up which triggered massive avalanches which would have killed him had he been anywhere else than where he was when it shook the earth.After reaching the summit the weather turned on him and his descent was in the midst of an raging snowstorm. It was a single non-stop do or die effort from his bivouac just below the summit where he was being snowed in, straight down the mountain to base camp. The story would be almost too remarkable to believe if it were anyone else but Reinhold Messner telling it.This amazing document was originally written in German and suffers from a dry literary style as a result of the translation and Messner's almost clinical examinations of his condition, his state of mind, and his philosophies of climbing. This dryness is more than made up for through an abundance of stunning photographs, very helpful maps, and absolutely remarkable drama.If you haven't read any other Messner books, this is a good one to start with. I also recommend Messner's All Fourteen 8,000ers which is an outstanding overview of all of the big mountains he climbed on his way to becoming the first human to do it. It is especially good for seeing how Messner, who was already a climbing superstar, becomes something that almost seems more than human. There will never be another Reinhold Messner. He has conquered the Earth, often by himself, and lives to talk about it.I have very much enjoyed this book as I have many others by Messner.
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